How To Choose Your First 3D Printer For Your Models

How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models. Man, just saying that out loud brings back memories! I remember staring at screens full of weird-looking machines, gears, and wires, feeling totally lost. It felt like everyone else spoke a secret language of FDM, SLA, g-code, and build volumes. All I wanted was to bring my digital ideas, whether they were gaming miniatures, cosplay props, or just some cool doodads for around the house, into the real world.

If you’re standing at the edge of this exciting, slightly overwhelming world right now, wanting to get your hands on a machine that can magically build stuff layer by layer, but have no clue where to start, you’re in the right place. Trust me, I’ve been there, made mistakes, learned the hard way, and come out the other side with a bunch of printers doing their thing in my workshop. My goal here is to help you skip some of the head-scratching and expensive oopsies I ran into when figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Choosing your first 3D printer, especially when your main goal is making models – maybe detailed miniatures, functional prototypes you’ve designed, or artistic pieces – is a big decision. It’s not just about picking the cheapest one or the one that looks the coolest. It’s about finding the right tool for *your* specific creative dreams and models. So, let’s break it down, step by step, and figure out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models without losing your mind.

Table of Contents

Why Even Bother 3D Printing Your Models?

Before we get into the nitty-gritty of machines, let’s touch on *why* this is such a cool path to go down. Why not just buy stuff? Well, when you learn How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, you’re getting the power to create *exactly* what you want. Found a board game miniature that doesn’t exist? Design it, print it. Need a specific part for a cosplay costume? Make it yourself. Want to iterate on a design for a functional gadget? Print version one, test it, tweak it, print version two. This kind of creative freedom is incredibly addictive and empowering.

It’s not just about saving money sometimes, although it can be. It’s about the ability to prototype, customize, and realize unique ideas that simply aren’t available off the shelf. Learning How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models opens up a world where your imagination is the main limit, not what’s available on Amazon or at the local store.

Plus, there’s a real satisfaction in watching something you designed (or found) slowly build itself before your eyes. It’s kinda like magic, but with more plastic… or resin. And when someone asks, “Where did you get that cool thing?” you get to puff out your chest a little and say, “Oh, I made it myself!” That feeling? Priceless.

So, the motivation is clear: creative freedom and the joy of making. Now, onto the tough part: How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models among the gazillion options out there.

Want to see what kinds of cool models people are printing? Check out some galleries here.

Okay, So What Kind of Models Are We Talking About?

This is probably the absolute first question you need to ask yourself. The ‘type’ of models you want to make is the single biggest factor in figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models. Are you mostly interested in:

Highly detailed miniatures? Think D&D figures, small character busts, intricate jewelry pieces. These often require super fine details that standard printers might struggle with.
Larger props or costume pieces? Helmets, armor parts, full-size replicas. These need a larger build area and don’t necessarily need microscopic detail, but strength and size matter.
Functional parts? Brackets, enclosures, replacement parts, tools. These need accuracy, potentially stronger materials, and good dimensional stability.
Artistic sculptures or prototypes? Stuff where maybe the texture is less critical than the overall form, or you just need a quick, cheap prototype before refining it.

Knowing your main goal helps narrow down the field significantly. Trying to print tiny, detailed minis on a printer designed for large, fast prototypes will lead to frustration. Similarly, trying to print a full-size helmet on a printer with a postage-stamp-sized build plate is just not gonna happen. Seriously, think hard about what models you *really* want to make before you dive into the hardware specs when considering How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Types of Printers: The Big Two

When you’re starting out and looking at How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, you’ll quickly run into two main types of consumer-level 3D printers:

FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling): These are the most common type for beginners. They work by melting a plastic filament (like a string) and squeezing it out layer by layer onto a build plate, building the object from the bottom up. Think of it like a super precise hot glue gun that moves in 3D space.
Resin (SLA/DLP/LCD): These printers work with liquid resin that hardens when exposed to UV light. They use different methods to expose the resin (lasers, projectors, or LCD screens), but the basic principle is the same. They build the model upside down (usually), lifting it out of the resin tank layer by layer.

These two types produce models with very different characteristics and have different workflows, costs, and ideal use cases. Understanding their fundamental differences is key to figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Learn more about the basic technologies here.

Diving Deeper into FDM

Okay, let’s talk FDM printers first. These are the workhorses for a lot of people, especially those starting out or needing larger, more durable prints. When considering How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models using FDM, here’s what you need to know:

Pros of FDM:

Generally lower entry cost.
Materials (filaments) are less expensive than resin per kilogram.
Wider variety of material types (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, Nylon, etc.), offering different properties (flexible, strong, heat resistant, etc.).
Larger build volumes are common and more affordable than with resin.
Less post-processing compared to resin – usually just removing supports.
Materials are generally less toxic and require fewer safety precautions than resin.

Cons of FDM:

Layer lines are visible, meaning prints aren’t perfectly smooth without post-processing like sanding or painting.
Details aren’t as fine as resin printers can achieve. Small text, tiny features, or very smooth organic shapes can be challenging.
Can be more prone to issues like warping (especially with materials like ABS), stringing, and bed adhesion problems.
Requires calibration and maintenance (leveling the bed, cleaning the nozzle, tightening belts).

What to Look For in a Beginner FDM Printer: When trying to figure out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models (FDM style), focus on these features:

Build Volume: How big is the printing area? Measured in XYZ (width, depth, height). Don’t just look at the X and Y; Z height matters for taller models. Think about the largest thing you realistically want to print. A standard “bed slinger” (where the bed moves back and forth) might have a 220x220x250mm build volume, which is decent for many things. Larger means more expensive, but also more possibilities.
Bed Leveling: This is SO important for getting successful prints. Manual leveling involves adjusting screws while using a piece of paper or sensor. Automatic bed leveling (ABL) uses a sensor to map the bed’s surface and adjust automatically during printing. For a beginner, ABL is a game-changer and significantly reduces frustration. Look for printers with ABL.
Build Plate Surface: What the melted plastic sticks to. Common ones are glass, flexible magnetic PEI sheets, or coated surfaces. Magnetic PEI is awesome for beginners because prints stick well when hot and then you can just flex the sheet to pop them off easily when cool.
Extruder Type: How the filament gets to the hotend.
- Bowden: The motor is on the printer frame, pushing the filament through a long tube (Bowden tube) to the hotend. Lighter print head means potentially faster movement, but can be harder with flexible filaments like TPU and can have more stringing issues due to filament elasticity in the tube.
- Direct Drive: The motor is right on top of the hotend. Heavier print head (potentially slower), but much better control over filament, especially flexible ones, and often better retraction (less stringing). For variety in materials, direct drive is usually preferred, even for a first printer if the budget allows.
Frame Rigidity: A sturdy metal frame is better than a flimsy plastic one. Less wobbling means better print quality.
Ease of Assembly/Setup: Some printers come as kits requiring hours of building. Others are 90% assembled, needing just a few screws. For your very first printer, less assembly is generally better so you can start printing faster and troubleshoot print issues, not assembly issues.
Safety Features: Thermal runaway protection is vital. This prevents the printer from overheating dangerously if a sensor fails. Most reputable brands have this now, but always check reviews.

This is a lot to take in, but these are the key things differentiating FDM printers when you’re trying to answer How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models. For many models, especially larger or more functional ones, a well-tuned FDM printer is more than enough.

Think about the types of filaments available here.

Diving Deeper into Resin

Now, let’s look at resin printers. If those super-detailed miniatures or smooth, organic sculptures are your jam, a resin printer might be calling your name. They operate on a totally different principle and have their own set of pros and cons when you’re figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Pros of Resin:

Incredible detail and smooth surfaces. You can print features so small you can barely see them without a magnifying glass. Layer lines are practically invisible.
Perfect for miniatures, highly detailed statues, jewelry, and anything requiring fine resolution.
Faster for printing multiple small objects simultaneously because the print time depends more on the height of the object than the number of objects on the build plate.

Cons of Resin:

Smaller build volumes compared to similarly priced FDM printers. Printing large items is expensive or impossible on most beginner resin printers.
Resin is more expensive than filament.
Resin is messy and requires more safety precautions (gloves, ventilation, eye protection) because it can be irritating and has fumes.
Significant post-processing is required: Prints come out sticky and need to be washed in alcohol (usually IPA) and then cured under UV light to harden fully. This adds extra steps and requires extra equipment (wash and cure stations are highly recommended).
Disposing of waste resin and contaminated alcohol requires care.
The printers themselves require more frequent cleaning (cleaning the resin vat, checking the FEP film).

What to Look For in a Beginner Resin Printer: When trying to figure out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models (resin style), here are the key things:

Resolution (LCD Screen): For LCD resin printers (the most common type for beginners), the resolution of the LCD screen matters for detail. It’s measured in pixels (e.g., 2K, 4K, 8K). BUT, pixel size is actually more important than just the pixel count. A 4K screen on a smaller build area will have smaller pixels (better detail) than a 4K screen on a much larger build area. Look for the pixel size (often measured in microns). Lower micron values mean higher detail.
Build Volume: Again, how big can you print? Resin printer build volumes are much smaller than FDM, typically ranging from pocket-sized up to maybe 10 inches on the longest side for common beginner/mid-range models. Think about the largest *detailed* model you want to make.
Light Source: Most beginner printers use a matrix of UV LEDs shining through an LCD screen. Newer ones might have more uniform light distribution, which can improve print quality across the whole plate.
Z-Axis Rail: A more stable Z-axis (the one that lifts the build plate) with linear rails can lead to more consistent layers and fewer failures.
Ease of Use: Consider the software it supports (Chitubox and Lychee are popular and user-friendly), the interface on the printer itself, and how easy it is to set up and clean the resin vat.
Lid/Cover: Most resin printers have a colored plastic lid to block ambient UV light. This is pretty standard.
Post-Processing Equipment: Remember, you’ll NEED a wash station and a UV curing station (or DIY solutions) in addition to the printer itself. Factor this into your total budget when thinking about How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.
Ventilation: Resin fumes can be strong. You’ll need a well-ventilated area or an enclosure with air filtering. Don’t plan on running this on your desk in a small, closed room without proper precautions.

Resin printing is fantastic for detail but requires more safety steps and post-processing. If your models are all about fine features, this is likely the way to go when deciding How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Considering resin? Learn about post-processing here.

Thinking About Size (Build Volume)

We touched on this briefly, but let’s hammer it home because it’s a key factor in How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models. Build volume is literally the maximum physical dimensions of an object you can print. It’s usually given as Width x Depth x Height (X x Y x Z). Don’t get fixated on just one number. A printer might have a huge Z height but a tiny X/Y, or vice versa.

Visualize the biggest model you’re likely to print. Will it fit? If not, are you okay with cutting the model into smaller pieces in software and gluing them together after printing? This is a very common practice, especially for large cosplay props or statues, but it adds complexity and post-processing work.

For FDM printers, common beginner sizes range from roughly 150x150x150mm up to 235x235x250mm or even larger. For resin printers, beginner sizes might be 130x80x160mm up to 200x120x200mm. Those numbers might seem small, but they can print a lot! A typical D&D mini fits easily on even the smallest resin bed, and many useful FDM parts fit within a 200mm cube.

Bigger build volume is tempting, but it usually means a higher price tag, the printer takes up more space, and print times for large objects can be *really* long (days, sometimes). Start by being realistic about the size of the models you intend to print when you’re figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Need help visualizing build volumes? This guide might help here.Materials Matter

The stuff you print with isn’t just generic plastic or liquid. Different materials have different properties and require different printer capabilities. Understanding this is pretty important for How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

For FDM:

PLA (Polylactic Acid): The most common and easiest material for beginners. Prints at lower temperatures, has minimal warping, and is relatively safe (made from plant starches). Good for models, toys, prototypes where strength and heat resistance aren’t critical. Most beginner printers handle PLA perfectly.
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol): A step up from PLA. Stronger, more durable, slightly flexible, and better temperature resistance. A bit trickier to print than PLA (can be stringy), but still manageable for most printers. Good for functional parts.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene): Strong, durable, and more heat resistant. Requires higher print temperatures and, ideally, an enclosed printer to prevent warping due to temperature changes. Emits fumes, so good ventilation is needed. Not recommended for a first-time FDM user unless you have a specific need and a suitable printer/space.
TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane): Flexible filament! Can print phone cases, bushings, flexible parts. Requires a printer with good extruder control, often a direct drive setup helps a lot. Prints slower than rigid filaments.

Most beginner FDM printers are great with PLA and PETG. If you need to print ABS or Nylon for stronger/more heat-resistant parts, you might need a printer with an enclosure and a hotend capable of higher temperatures. Consider what properties your models need.

For Resin:

Standard Resin: General purpose, good detail, relatively brittle once cured. Comes in many colors. Most common for miniatures and detailed models.
Water Washable Resin: Can be cleaned with water instead of IPA. Convenient, but prints might be slightly more brittle than standard resin.
Tough/ABS-like Resin: More durable and less brittle than standard resin. Good for functional prototypes or parts that might experience some stress.
Flexible Resin: Prints bendy parts. Often mixed with other resins to add some flexibility to otherwise brittle prints.

Most resin printers can handle standard and water washable resins easily. If you plan on using more specialized resins like tough or flexible ones regularly, check printer compatibility, as sometimes these require specific settings or light wavelengths that certain printers handle better than others.

So, think about how strong, flexible, or heat-resistant your final models need to be. This helps inform the material choice, which in turn influences How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Curious about resin types? Read more here.Software and Slicing

The printer hardware is only half the story. You also need software. You’ll need a modeling program (like Tinkercad for beginners, Fusion 360, Blender, etc.) to create models, or you can download models from sites like Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory. But crucially, you need slicing software. This program takes your 3D model file (like an STL or 3MF) and slices it into hundreds or thousands of horizontal layers. It also generates the instructions (g-code for FDM, or specific file types for resin) that tell your printer exactly where to move, how fast, what temperature, and when to extrude material or flash light.

Popular slicing software for FDM includes Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Simplify3D (paid). For resin, Chitubox and Lychee are widely used. Many printer manufacturers have their own version of slicing software, sometimes based on these popular ones.

When considering How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, it’s helpful if the printer you choose has good, established support in popular slicing software. This means there are pre-configured profiles for your specific printer model, making it easier to get good prints without guessing at settings. All reputable beginner printers will have profiles available in Cura or PrusaSlicer (FDM) or Chitubox/Lychee (Resin).

Slicing software is where you set print quality (layer height), infill percentage (how dense the inside of the model is), support structures (for overhangs), print speed, temperatures, and a million other settings. It can seem overwhelming, but starting with a good printer profile and tweaking one setting at a time is the way to go. The usability and features of the slicer are part of the overall experience, so it’s worth checking what software the printer is compatible with and maybe watching a quick tutorial on it.

Get started with basic slicing concepts here.Ease of Use and Setup

Your very first printer shouldn’t require an engineering degree to set up or operate. Seriously, ease of use is a massive factor in whether you stick with the hobby or get frustrated and give up. When you’re trying to figure out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, think about:

Assembly: Does it come as a box of parts that you have to build from scratch following vague instructions? Or is it mostly pre-assembled, requiring just attaching a few major components? For a first printer, I strongly lean towards mostly pre-assembled. Getting the mechanics right when building a kit can be tough for a beginner, and a simple mistake can lead to endless print failures. Get printing faster, learn the software and printing process, then maybe build a kit for your second printer if you’re feeling adventurous.
User Interface: What’s the screen like? Is it a clunky monochrome screen with a dial, or a responsive color touchscreen? Is the menu system logical and easy to navigate? A good interface makes tasks like loading filament, starting prints, and adjusting settings much less annoying.
Loading Filament/Resin: How easy is it to feed new filament into the FDM printer? How easy is it to fill the resin vat without making a huge mess?
Connectivity: How do you get your print files to the printer? SD card is standard. USB tethering is common. WiFi connectivity is a nice feature for convenience, letting you send prints wirelessly and sometimes monitor progress remotely (though reliability varies).
Calibration: We talked about bed leveling for FDM. How automated is it? How often does it need calibrating? Resin printers need the Z-axis zeroed (setting the home position) – how easy is that process?

A printer that is easy to set up and use out of the box lets you focus on learning the *printing* process and troubleshooting print quality issues, rather than struggling with the machine itself. This is super important when figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models without getting totally overwhelmed.

Find tips for your first print here.Maintenance and Troubleshooting

No 3D printer is a magical box that just works perfectly forever. They require maintenance, and things *will* go wrong sometimes. Learning basic troubleshooting is part of the journey. When considering How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, think about how approachable maintenance and troubleshooting seem for that specific machine.

Common FDM Maintenance/Issues:

Clogged nozzles: Filament residue can block the tiny nozzle hole. Learning to clear a clog or change a nozzle is a necessary skill.
Bed adhesion problems: Prints won’t stick, or stick too well. Needs cleaning, possibly glue stick or hairspray, or releveling.
Stringing: Fine wisps of plastic between parts of the model. Requires tweaking slicer settings (retraction).
Layer shifting: Layers don’t line up correctly, resulting in a messed-up print. Often due to loose belts or skipping motors.
Warping: Corners of the print lift off the bed. Common with materials like ABS, but can happen with PLA too.
General cleaning: Dusting, cleaning the build plate.

Common Resin Maintenance/Issues:

Cleaning the resin vat: After failed prints or when changing resin. The FEP film at the bottom of the vat is delicate and can be punctured or scratched.
Changing the FEP film: It wears out over time or gets damaged. Requires careful replacement.
Screen damage: The LCD screen that cures the resin can be damaged by spills or pressure. Protect this!
Resin disposal: Proper handling and disposal of liquid resin and contaminated liquids.
Calibration: Z-axis calibration is crucial for first layer success.

When researching printers, look for information on how easy it is to perform common maintenance tasks like changing a nozzle or replacing FEP film. Also, check if there are plenty of online resources (videos, guides, forums) for troubleshooting common issues with that specific printer model. A printer with good community support means you’re less likely to be stuck when something inevitably goes wrong. This factors into How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models in a big way – you want to feel supported, not abandoned, when troubleshooting.

Find resources for common issues here.

Budget Talk

Alright, let’s talk money. Your budget is going to heavily influence How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models. As with most things, you generally get what you pay for, but there are fantastic entry-level printers that won’t break the bank.

Beginner FDM Prices:

Under $250-$300: You can find basic kit printers here, often with smaller build volumes, manual bed leveling, and maybe fewer features. Might require more tinkering. Can produce good prints, but might be less reliable or require more effort.
$300 – $500: This is sweet spot for many beginner FDM printers. You’ll find popular models with decent build volumes, auto bed leveling, magnetic build plates, and good community support. Excellent value here.
$500 – $800+: Moving into more features like direct drive extruders, sturdier frames, larger build volumes, sometimes enclosures, and faster print speeds. If you have the budget, these can offer a smoother experience or specific capabilities (like better flexible filament handling).

Beginner Resin Prices:

Under $200-$300: Very basic, smaller build volume resin printers. Often 2K or 4K resolution on a small screen. Can produce amazing detail for their size and price, but might have slower curing times or less robust build quality.
$300 – $500: More popular beginner resin printers. Often larger build volumes for the price tier and sometimes higher resolution screens (4K or 6K) on slightly larger build areas, giving better detail across a bigger plate. More features and usually better community support.
$500+: Higher resolution (8K+ on increasing screen sizes), larger build volumes, faster curing times due to stronger/more uniform light sources, better build quality.

Don’t Forget Ongoing Costs: The printer price isn’t the only cost when you’re thinking about How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models. You’ll need:

Filament or Resin: This is your consumable. A roll of filament might cost $20-$30. A bottle of resin might cost $30-$50+. How much you use depends entirely on what you print.
Replacement Parts: Nozzles wear out (FDM), FEP film needs replacing (Resin), build plates get scratched, fans fail.
Tools: Snips, spatulas, pliers, safety glasses, gloves, potentially a wash and cure station (Resin).
Electricity: Printers use power, especially when running for hours.

Factor in the cost of materials and necessary accessories when setting your budget. A slightly more expensive printer that is reliable and easier to use might save you money in the long run through fewer failed prints and less wasted material. It’s all part of the equation for How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Community and Support

This is huge, especially for your first printer. 3D printing, while much easier than it used to be, still has a learning curve. When you inevitably run into a problem (and you will!), having access to help makes all the difference. When figuring out How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, look at the community around specific printer models or brands.

Are there active Facebook groups?
Are there popular forums or subreddits dedicated to that printer?
Is there a wealth of YouTube videos for setup, troubleshooting, and tips?
How responsive is the manufacturer’s customer support? (Check reviews!)
Are spare parts easily available?

Some printer brands have absolutely massive, helpful communities. This means whatever issue you’re facing, someone else has likely had it too and posted a solution online. This kind of shared knowledge is invaluable for beginners. Don’t underestimate the power of a strong community when deciding How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Find community resources here.

Considering the Future

Okay, you’ve printed your first few models. Maybe you’re hooked (likely!). Think a little bit about where you might want to go with 3D printing down the line. Does the printer you’re considering offer any upgrade paths? Can it handle slightly more advanced materials? While you don’t need the most high-tech machine right away, picking one that isn’t a total dead end after a few months might be wise. This is less critical than your immediate needs, but something to ponder when you’re finalizing How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Will you eventually want a larger build volume? The ability to print with abrasive materials (requires a different nozzle)? Dual colors (requires a different extruder setup)? If you *know* you’ll want a specific advanced feature eventually, check if any printers in your budget range offer a path towards that, or if it would require buying a completely new machine.

For most people, their first printer is just that – their *first*. You’ll learn what’s important to you, what features you actually use, and what limitations you find frustrating. This knowledge will be super helpful when you eventually decide to upgrade or buy a second printer (because yes, it’s addictive, you might end up with more than one!). So don’t stress *too* much about future-proofing, but keep it in the back of your mind as you consider How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models.

Plan for expanding your skills here.

My Personal Take and Wrapping Up

Having gone through the whole process myself, both getting my first printer and then helping others, I’ve seen what works and what causes headaches. For most people starting out and trying to answer How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models, especially if you want to print a variety of things from functional parts to larger props, an FDM printer is usually the most versatile and easiest starting point. They are less messy, the materials are cheaper, and while the detail isn’t resin-level, it’s perfectly adequate for a huge range of models, prototypes, and practical prints. Look for one with auto bed leveling – trust me on this, it saves so much frustration.

If, however, your absolute *sole* focus is on tiny, highly detailed miniatures (like for tabletop gaming) and you’re prepared for the mess and post-processing, then a resin printer is probably the better choice, even as a first printer. Just make sure you have a dedicated, well-ventilated space and budget for the wash/cure station and safety gear. How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models comes down to this core decision based on what you primarily want to create.

Don’t get paralysis by analysis. There are many good beginner printers out there in both FDM and Resin categories. Pick a few models that fit your budget and seem suitable for the *type* of models you want to print (that key question!), then do some quick research on reviews and community support for those specific models. Watch some YouTube reviews – see what people are saying about ease of setup, reliability, and print quality for that printer. This is a critical step in How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models effectively.

Remember, your first printer is a learning tool. You’ll learn about slicing settings, supports, material properties, and troubleshooting. You’ll get failed prints – everyone does! Don’t get discouraged. Each failure is a lesson. The goal is to get a machine that lets you learn and succeed more often than you fail, and that means picking one that’s reasonably reliable, easy to use, and has good support.

Ultimately, How to Choose Your First 3D Printer for Your Models is about balancing your budget, the type of models you want to create, and your tolerance for tinkering. Good luck, have fun, and welcome to the incredibly cool world of 3D printing!

Learn more about 3D printing at www.Alasali3D.com

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